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| How could you say no to a good haggis? (from philly.thedrinknation.com) |
While many Burns Suppers have more relaxed dress codes, the local Burns Supper is often the only Scottish-themed black-tie event of the year for most people outside the United Kingdom. Unfortunately, the influence of tourist traps and kilt-hire shops can be clearly seen in the clothing selections of guests at these events. While such people get a pass both because of the extreme effort they're often making to connect to their roots and because they simply don't know any better, if you haven't sorted-out your Scottish outfit, here are some pitfalls to avoid and tips to ensure your ensemble passes muster.
1. Your Kilt Doesn't Rest at Your Hips!
This is the biggest issue you'll see, both with trousers and with kilts, but it looks especially sloppy with a kilt. The kilt is designed to be worn very high - at least at the wearer's waist (which is above your hip bones, typically at the same level as your navel), though some are worn even higher. This is important as it ensures the kilt stays put whether you're sitting, standing, dancing, traipsing about the Highlands, etc. Your waist doesn't stretch and move nearly as much as the regions below it, and it serves to keep the kilt stable and the bottom edge at the proper place.
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| There's no such thing as "too high" when it comes to wearing a kilt. (Image from xmarksthescot.com) |
2. Your Kilt Doesn't Cover Your Knees!
One of the main reasons for wearing a kilt is to show off your legs, but many men (especially young men) have a tendency to wear their kilts with the edge below their knees and with their hose (i.e., socks) pulled way up so no leg is showing.
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| Al Roker's knees have low self esteem. (Image from adweek.com) |
And while we're on the subject, your kilt hose should, as a general rule, be no higher than two or three finger widths below the bottom of the kneecap.
3. Wear the Right Jacket
As you can see in the case of Mr. Roker above, a "normal" jacket with a kilt just looks... strange. Thankfully this is the area in which most people are safe. The ubiquitous Prince Charlie jacket is 100% correct for wear with a kilt at a black-tie event, and it seems almost everyone has one... which is as good a reason as any to avoid them if you ask me!
Another good reason to opt for another jacket was given by C.R. MacKinnon in his book Scottish Tartans and Highland Dress, in which he derides the Prince Charlie coatee for throwing the figure out of proportion with much too much kilt showing and a tiny torso balanced precariously on top. I tend to agree with him. Additionally, the slouchy kilt-wearer looks significantly worse in such an abbreviated jacket as puffs of white shirt emerge between the jacket and kilt.
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| The jackets in the illustration at the left are Prince Charlie coatees (Image from xmarksthescot.com) |
The Argyll jacket is the quintessential kilt jacket - the black jackets with silver buttons worn by bagpipe bands are almost all Argyll jackets. They come in all sorts of colours, though black is most common for formal wear, and come in rough tweeds of innumerable patterns and even tartan; though for a black-tie dress code, don't wear tweed! Tartan, worsted, barathea wool, or even velvet are all fine choices. Most people opt for the simple black barathea Argyll jacket and kill two birds with one stone as it can be worn during the day and the evening by changing the waistcoat and tie.
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| The timeless black Argyll worn with the Cthulhu Tartan. (Image from xmarksthescot.com) |
The other option for your Burns Night is my favourite: the regulation doublet. Similar to a Prince Charlie jacket, but with "Inverness flaps" or "tashes" attached to prevent the tiny-torso look.
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| A regulation doublet worn with the MacQueen tartan. |
There are numerous other options, but most are considered a bit too formal for black tie, so I'll cover those in a future post on Highland doublets and white tie dress codes.
4. Wear an Evening Sporran
The sporran is the pouch worn on the front of the kilt and is used in place of pockets (since almost all kilts have none). Sporrans for more casual wear and for evening wear tend to be very different. In general, the more casual sporrans are plain leather (or pleather, for our vegan friends) and are worn with a simple leather strap. For evening wear, however, a sporran with a cantle (the metal bit on the top) is called-for. Evening sporrans are also usually made from fur rather than plain leather, though a cantled leather hunting sporran will do in a pinch.
There's also the option of the full-mask sporran, which, like the Argyll jacket, can be worn with day or evening dress; though they do sometimes cause people to scream...
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| Badger-Badger-Badger-Badger (Image from katemacphersonsporrans.co.uk - they are very cool) |
Please don't fall for the ploy that the so-called "semi-dress" sporran is adequate for both casual and evening wear. The semi-dress sporran is truly the El Camino of the sporran world; it claims to be both a truck and a car, but in reality is neither.
Finally, there's the horsehair sporran - those made with long horse hair and sported by military bands. While technically "correct", unless you're playing the bagpipes at your event, I'd suggest you forgo the horsehair sporran. If you choose not to, just be warned that many will assume you're compensating for something...
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| Unless you're playing the pipes or drums, you're trying too hard... |
5. Don't Wear White Hose or Tartan Flashes
Wearing cheap white hose with flashes (the bits that peek-out from the rolled-down sock top) in the same tartan as your kilt just screams "tourist". Many shops that rent kilts stock white hose because they supposedly "go with anything". While some people do like the look of white hose, you're much better-off wearing a colour that accentuates a small line or stripe in your kilt's tartan.
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| House of Cheviot's Lewis Hose are a bit pricey, but are AMAZING and come in tons of colours. |
As for flashes, solid-colours are best. They typically attach to an elastic strap that is fastened under the hose cuff to help keep them up. If you want something a little more rustic, consider traditional garter ties.
If you insist on wearing tartan flashes, please wear them with a hose colour other than white!
You also don't have to wear a sgian dubh (knife) in your hose. You can, but there's no requirement that you do so (and some venues or local laws might prohibit it).
6. You Don't Have to Wear Ghillie Brogues
The salesperson in the shop on the Royal Mile may have told you that ghillie brogues are indispensible for "formal" kilt wearing, but that's not entirely true. While they have come to be acceptable footwear for black-tie dress, a traditional patent-leather formal shoe or well-polished oxford will do just as well!
If you do opt for ghillie brogues, red laces and tassels are a traditional way to dress them up a bit and differentiate yourself from the masses of ghillie-wearers.
7. Wear a Waistcoat or Belt
An evening waistcoat (vest) has a deeper, v-shaped opening than day-wear waistcoats - the former usually having only three buttons while the latter have five. If you want to wear a waistcoat, the evening waistcoat is best. Tartan waistcoats look excellent, but be sure the tartan is the same as your kilt!
Formal kilt belts have large, flat, plate buckles (not plain tack-and-harness or Sam Browne buckles) and should be black.
Many of the attendees at state-side Burns Suppers will sport a waistcoat and belt, which should be avoided. The belt will either be hidden beneath the waistcoat, making the wearer look more portly, or will prevent the waistcoat from extending as far down as needed to prevent wrinkles.
Think of the formal kilt belt like a cummerbund - you wouldn't wear a waistcoat and cummerbund with a tuxedo...
If it's warm, wear a belt with no waistcoat. If it's cool, wear a waistcoat with no belt.
8. Wear Traditional Shirt, Studs, and Cufflinks
Follow the sage advice provided for these items on The Black Tie Guide.
9. Wear a Kilt Pin if You'd Like
Kilt pins aren't strictly necessary as they don't serve any real functional purpose. Some people believe that they're intended to hold the kilt closed, but one should never pin the front apron to the back apron of the kilt! That is just asking for a tear in the fabric and a ruined kilt. If kilt pins are intended for anything other than decoration, it is to add a bit of weight to the outer edge of the front apron.
Virtually any pin can be used as a kilt pin, just keep in mind that it should be fairly subdued, not too large or small, and shouldn't have any sharp points that might catch or damage the kilt (aside from the pin itself). While some might deride a simple blanket pin at a black-tie gathering, it is my opinion that they are practical and attractive, despite their simplicity. Besides, if you have only one kilt, it's best not to be swapping the pins out too much as that can lead to visible holes in your kilt!
Many people, in their excitement about their Scottish heritage, purchase innumerable "clan crest" items - sporrans, kilt pins, cap badges, cufflinks, etc. While pride in one's family and heritage are admirable, adorning oneself with nothing but the buckle and strap crest of a clan has the effect of making one look like a Formula-1 car sponsored by a clan society. If you wish to wear your clan's crest-badge, wear one and no more.
10. You Don't Need a Hat
In general, one should never wear a hat indoors, especially at a black-tie event. If the weather is cold and headwear is worn en route to the event, simple Scottish headwear will do. Balmoral bonnets are generally preferred as the Glengarry looks a bit too military (though you can wear one if you like).
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| Balmoral Bonnet in Lovat Green (image from jhiggins.net) |
Just remember, neither should ever be made of tartan!
That's it!
While there is certainly more nuance and variation than outlined here, these 10 tips will get you off on the right foot should you wish to kilt-up for your black-tie Burns Supper (or other event).
Good luck!
